Restaurant Review: Gaylord’s of India

Recently, India and Pakistan both celebrated their 58th year of freedom from British rule. In 1947, Pandit Jawaharlal Nehru announced the beginning of a new and independent India after over 300 years of British rule that had started with the establishment of the British East India Company in 1600 A.D.

At present, India comprises 25 states and 7 union territories and is the largest democracy in the world. Pakistan, once the northwestern provinces of India, became a separate Muslim nation just one day before official Indian independence. These special days of independence are celebrated not only in Asia, but all over the world, wherever people from India or Pakistan are found.

Chicago, having a sizable Indo-Pak community, has been celebrating the independence of these countries for many years. While there is often tension between the two countries, the Indian and Pakistani communities in Chicago peacefully co-exist.

Dual Independence days mean two parades—the Pakistani parade was held last weekend. This Sunday at noon the India’s parade makes its way down the stretch of Devon Avenue from Western to California in Chicago’s Indo-Pak neighborhood— making already difficult traffic, insanely impassable. If you can, sit back and enjoy the festivities with the crowd of 15,000, including waving Bollywood stars. You’ll get a chance to hear India’s national anthem and perhaps see something unexpected—last years’ parade featured an impromptu debate from then senatorial candidate Barack Obama and rival Alan Keyes.

Many shops remain open giving you a chance to take home a little piece of sub-continental culture: jewelry, books, incense, or a beautifully colored sari. And of course there’s the food—Indian and Pakistani food both consist of wonderfully fragrant stews of beans and vegetables, curried meats, basmati rice and several flat breads.

For me, however, the best Indian food in the city isn’t found on Devon Avenue but in River North on the first floor of the Wacker Hotel at Gaylord’s of India. Gaylord’s has certainly proved its worth, boasting a history on Clark and Huron since 1972, making it one of the first Indian restaurants in the city.

What was once a humble storefront has become an elegant downtown restaurant—without a significant price increase. Like many other Indian restaurants, Gaylord’s provides a hearty lunch buffet seven days a week that makes for a fine meal for many business-people in the area. Unlike many other Indian restaurants, however, the food at Gaylord is clearly higher quality. It is always incredibly fresh, expertly-seasoned and never greasy. It is also consistent—always.

Because of the great food and just-north-of-the-loop location, Gaylord’s is often busy for lunch, but the serious and efficient wait-staff have this system down to a science. There usually is no wait for a table despite the lunch rush. Plus, high turnover means constantly fresh offerings on the buffet.

Gaylord’s becomes more romantic in the evening hours, making it an exotic place to take a date. And because it sits in River North, the restaurant offers valet parking during dinner hours.

Due to the huge Hindu population, Indian cuisine is not only vegetarian friendly, but has had a captive audience to perfect the art of vegetarian cooking over hundreds of years. When it comes to vegetarian options, Gaylord doesn’t disappoint. They offer Sag Paneer (creamed spinach), many varieties of dal and chick peas, mixed vegetable curries and sautéed cabbage with lentils that are all spiced extremely well. Dishes are not as tongue-numbingly hot as you might find at other Indian restaurants (especially South Indian) but there are some that still have quite a kick. And don’t forget potatoes. Gaylord has many Aloo (potato) offerings spiced several savory ways. Each dish has a different mixture of spices and has its own unique flavor.

Gaylord’s offers meat, too, of course. While they have several kinds of Tandoori (special charcoal clay pit for meats and bread) chicken, they offer many chicken curries as well. When a friend of mine visits from out of town, he always looks forward to Gaylord’s lamb curry. And many people enjoy the Shrimp Masala, one of the seafood dishes featured at Gaylord’s.

The buffet dessert almost always features a spiced carrot and cream-of-wheat pudding and rice pudding. But they also offer Gulab Jaman which are like soft donut balls in warm, fragrant syrup.

I highly recommend their tea. It is simpler than most masala teas, but most satisfying.

Considering the location, food quality and atmosphere, Gaylord’s is a real bargain. The lunch buffet is $9.95 and dinner prices are reasonable. Due to their fantastic success, Gaylord now has a location in the suburbs.

Gaylord India 678 N. Clark St. Chicago (312) 664-1700. In Schaumburg: 555 Mall Dr. (847) 619-3300.