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COLORADO - As frozen winter gives way to spring and early summer, snowmelt from the majestic central Colorado mountains transform the meandering flow of the Arkansas River into raging white water. After three million years of this repeated cycle, the river has carved out of the granite bedrock the awing Royal Gorge.
Situated just outside Caņon City, Colorado, tourists have several options to view and enjoy the Royal Gorge. There is the quaint amusement park built directly on the edges of the Gorge, famous for the world's highest suspension bridge that connects the two sides at a height 1,054 feet. If you're afraid of heights (and amusement parks), then perhaps the scenic train that travels along the banks of the river is your best bet.
Not one for mixing my outdoor recreation with throngs of tourists on a holiday weekend, I opted to experience the Gorge on a guided raft down the Arkansas. Through a referral, my brother-in-law Brian and I hooked up with expert guide James (Jimmy) Whiteside, and his company, aptly named Royal Gorge Rafting.
When we arrived at RGR bright and early, we were greeted by Jimmy's fellow partner Ty, who exclaimed, "You boys want to go rafting!?" Ty clued us in that we had arrived during some of the highest waters in years. Excellent snow accumulations from the past winter had everyone in Caņon City psyched to be on the river. As one of the RGR guides helped outfit us with gear he quipped, "Man, I can't believe that I get paid to do this! Days like this one are why I love my job!"
The enthusiasm was contagious and the excitement started to well up as we drove down to the river in the RGR van. Jimmy took advantage of the 15-minute drive to explain the safety precautions for the unlikely possibility that we should fall into the river. He also explained the categories of white water, category I being the lowest to category VI, practically unrideable. We were in for a day of solid class IV, and some class V highlights with intimidating names like Sunshine Falls, Sledgehammer and the Narrows.
Shortly after launching the raft, Jimmy taught us the paddle commands he would be calling out and explained the proper paddling technique; using the whole body, not just the arms. It was actually easier said than done. Good strokes felt like an effortless golf swing, and bad strokes were tense arm wrestling matches. After we got the hang of the commands and Jimmy felt that the boat's movements were responsive, we progressed toward the white water.
Our first taste quickly transformed the body from overheating in neoprene, to instantly cool. As we approached the undulating white foam, we completely placed our faith and safety into the experience of Jimmy's commands. "Here we go! Forward two. Forward two. ALL FORWARD! GO! GO!" Jimmy's expert guidance ensured the raft approached the waves and rock-induced "holes" with the proper trajectory and speed to navigate each set of exhilarating obstacles. After negotiating difficult sections, Jimmy would call to "put em' up," a celebratory high-five toast of clinking paddles.
After a short half-time break, Brian and I decided to don the splash jackets we originally thought were unnecessary as our upper bodies shivered from the melted snow waters. With body heat quickly regained, we switched sides of the raft to balance our muscle exertion, and started our approach into the Gorge. Rushing around bends and turns, the sun quickly disappeared behind rising canyon walls. As we passed under the suspension bridge, the echoes of wind and water bounced off the 1,200-foot granite rocks creating a tunnel effect. The sheer size of the Royal Gorge humbled me with a silly grin as we strained our necks like tourists in the Sistine Chapel.
Going beyond the Gorge, calmer waters led to interesting conversation with our boat mates who now seemed like old friends. Rafting is a unique experience; in essence a raft crew is a team, though its purpose is much different than those of traditional sport. We were not out to win anything, though there was certainly a sense of accomplishment. Concentrated focus and hard paddling for over two hours had evaporated the mundane thoughts floating through my mind. Tranquility and calm entered. Getting to share this experience with good company, I now understood why the boyish guide had proclaimed earlier, "Days like this one, are why I love my job!"
The combination of the vertical scenery, the pleasant sunshine and the raging waters brought me a sense of connectedness and gratitude for my opportunity to enjoy this three million-year-old playground. I felt pity for those who pollute our waters and environment for short-sited profits, as they just don't get it. This day on the tumultuous Arkansas River reminded me that contrary to fleeting perceptions; we're definitely not in control. The best we can do is listen to the guide calling the commands and ride our currents as gracefully as possible.
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